I spent last weekend (March 28 – April 1) down near the Shiloh National Military Park and in and around Corinth, Mississippi. I went so that I could see the 150th anniversary battle reenactment for the battle of Shiloh and tour the Military Park itself, hopefully identifying at least where the 53rd Ohio Voluntary Infantry regiment had been camped and where the battle had started for them. I was fortunate enough to have my dad and my brother along with me, to whom I will be eternally grateful for coming along, asking questions, hiking around with me, taking lots of pictures and video, and just generally sharing the experience. It was a great time.
Corinth itself is a cute little town. They have managed to keep their downtown somewhat alive and have quite a few great little shops and restaurants. Everyone we met there was so incredibly nice, truly some of the nicest people I’ve ever met. I wish I lived closer, I would go there all the time.
The Corinth Civil War Interpretive Center is located just outside of town and is a fantastic facility. They had a couple of videos, one about the battle at Shiloh and one about the battle at Corinth (which I hadn’t studied very much). It was great to see some of the re-enactors filtering in through the morning in their uniforms.
I was prepared for the Military Park to be much larger than the image I had in my head, but it still blew me away. The park itself is over 42,000 acres. We were there kind of later in the afternoon, so we spent some time in the visitor’s center and then headed out on the driving tour. The visitor’s center was very nice. They even had a Union uniform I could try on (Dad and Matt both took pictures, I’ll update this post when I get them). We watched a 30-minute film on the battle from 1956, which was interesting, pasted on beards and all.
We didn’t have time for the entire driving tour, but we did stop and hike along the sunken road and then around Shiloh Church so we could find the 53rd OVI’s campsite.
The hike along the sunken road was amazing. The trail goes about a half-mile back from the road. At first it’s along a fence line, and then it goes into the woods. I had read that at its deepest the sunken road was only about 18 inches below the surrounding land, and, although the road had leveled out significantly, you could see that it probably afforded the soldiers positioned there only the barest amount of protection. In the wooded areas it was pretty eerie, just imagining what it would have been like to be laying there in a muddy ditch while the Rebel soldiers launched attack after attack. The Union troops there held that position for about 8 hours on the first day of battle, with the Confederate soldiers launching 11 separate attacks before finally surrounding the remaining Union soldiers and taking them prisoner.
It was getting dark by the time we found the 53rd OVI’s campsite. We started out at Shiloh Church and hiked back through the woods, across Rhea’s Creek and then into Rhea’s Field where we found it. This part of the trip was especially overwhelming. I’ve been reading about this battle, and particularly the beginning of the battle for the 53rd, for about three years now. To finally be able to see it, to be able to
place where the soldiers had lined up that morning, the directions the Rebel troops had come from, the way many of the men had gone when they broke and ran for Pittsburg Landing – I don’t know that I can describe the feeling just yet. I’ve spent so much time trying to put myself into the shoes of the men that stood there that morning, and being able to stand there in that same spot, it made it all so much more real for me. I could see what they saw and I can now better imagine what it must have been like to watch the Rebels come out of the woods and begin firing from two directions.
On Saturday, we went to one of the two re-enactments that were being held over the weekend. The actual 150th anniversary isn’t until April 6 and 7, but the re-enactments were being held a week early so as not to conflict with the battlefield illumination and other events being held at the Military Park.
We got there early and toured the camps, talking to some of the re-enactors along the way. The re-enactors were great, all of them eager to answer questions. We got to film some of the Union soldiers lining up and beginning their morning drill. We went out along the Confederate battery and saw them drilling with their cannons. It was great.
The actual re-enactment began at around 2 pm. We had good seats, although we were right next to the Union battery, which was much louder than I had imagined. In fact, everything was louder than I had imagined. The cannons near us were so loud that when they fired you could feel the vibrations through your body.
They were set to re-enact portions of the battle for the sunken road, and so almost all of the Union soldiers were lined up behind a makeshift fence. The Confederates marched in, the cannons shot at each other, the soldiers shot at each other, and there were even cavalry forces which rode up on horseback. It was pretty exciting. The Union batteries had some noise-makers they would set off to try and imitate the sound of the shot and shell flying through the air and they had a couple of ground explosives set to go off and throw up dirt to look like shot hitting the ground. One of the coolest things to see were the smoke rings that came out of the cannons and even some of the rifles when they were shot just right.
I’m so glad that I went to see all of that. The battlefield itself was incredible and the re-enactment is the closest I’m going to get to actually witnessing the battles that I’m writing about. The details I was able to make note of will definitely serve me well as I write.